Roughly described, a machete is a very long, heavy knife.  It’s made in varying sizes and designs.  A very popular blade size is one that is usually 18” in length, 2 and a quarter inches in width and just a few millimeters thick.  They’re not too short and have good weight on them.    

In third world countries, the machete is often as valuable as a sharp knife.  It’s actually used as a knife, a cleaver, a splitter, even a butcher’s knife to mention a few.  You’d be hard pressed to find a household without one.  It is truly fantastic when it isn’t being abused as a weapon.      

Just in case you’re not sure, the swing when using a machete is very simple.  Bring your arm up to just beside or behind your ear.  Your elbow should be sticking outwards and to the side at shoulder level.  Your forearm should be on the same line as where you want the machete to land.  This can serve as a guide until you get the hang of it.  Bring your arm down forcefully and do a snap as you chop.  The point of contact on your machete should be midway along the blade length.  Please, firmly warn any person following you to stay at least 10 feet behind you.  (Just imagine!)  The tip should never be used as part of a chop.  It’s usually only used for piercing, poking, jabbing or as an extension of your hand.

When clearing a path through jungles, there are recommended swings for specific types of targets.

▪  Succulent or frail vegetation can be smacked away by cutting sideways or by swiping upwards.  Most of the time, you can just duck or pivot and save your energy for the tough stuff.

▪  If you’re cutting tall grass, reeds or anything similar in structure, cut downward at a 45 degree angle.  Do this just above waist level where you won’t need to stoop.  If the vegetation is towering, you might decide to just cleave your way through using your arms. 

▪  If you’re cutting tough rubbery vines, try to avoid swinging away at them.  Use your free hand to gather as much as possible and then chop at an angle a foot in front of your hand holding the vines.  This way, you won’t have to hack three times to sever one vine.  Some jobs just aren’t easy.

▪  If a long branch is hanging down into your path, chop at it from the topside of the branch.  Again, use a 45 degree angle from the branch surface.

▪  When you come up on very slim tree trunks or really sturdy bushes, you’ll need to make a judgment call.  You’ll need to decide on whether you should exert the energy to remove it or whether you should just go around it, under it or over it.  When in doubt, and even if the doubts are frequent, pass them by.

When you’re in a dense jungle, and you’ve got a long way to go, your champion is a machete.  It cuts just about anything.  And if you haven’t gotten clear when approaching dusk, your machete can cut and shape wood, help to make twine for you to quickly build a temporary shelter.  It’ll cut firewood.  It’ll cut fruits, nuts and even enable you to catch wild game, if you’re able.  It can even help you to fish, if you’d like.  The possibilities are many.

If I ever had to coordinate a survival gear package, the machete would be a guaranteed inclusion.  It’s difficult to think of another tool that could do as many things for you in the situations which call for it.  When you’re surrounded by dense undergrowth for miles in every direction, nothing can outperform the magnificent machete.  Just you believe it.

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Len Q. is a master blade sharpener and an adventurer who strives to protect the natural world.  If you would like to learn about

            ▪  Knife Sharpening:  How to Sharpen Knives, Maintain and Store Them

            ▪  Tests for Sharpness, Steeling, Stropping and more

            ▪  Sharpening Other Blade Edges

               (i.e. Chain Saws, Gardening Tools, Axes)

            ▪  Maybe you’d like a Free Guide:  Sharpening Lawn Mower Blades

Find it here at www.MakeKnivesSharp.com 

Throwing knives, especially professional throwing knives, do not have a handle.  You are meant to grasp the blade, which is one continuous piece of metal, with just your hand.  Following that, a safe thrower should use blunt-edged blades at all times.  Allow me to repeat:  Always use blunt-edged blades.  Your hands will thank you for it.  Sharp edges bear no true significance in the success of the throw or of the stick.  And competitions do not allow for sharp edges. 

The manner in which you grip your throwing knife is crucial in the success of every throw.  To be sufficiently fit for a good grip, one must have a fairly strong upper body, including the arms and hands.  Push ups are a fantastic exercise for this.  If you do push ups on your knees, or against a wall, with your fingers as your contact and not your palm or fist, you’ll be conditioning your chest, arms, hands and fingers, all at once.  Finger weights or springs can further strengthen your fingers.  Hand grips are extremely effective.  Think of it this way, if your hands aren’t very strong, your grip won’t be either.  Without a strong grip, the skill cannot be developed.  If you’re having difficulty gripping the knife, use tape or similar sticking material around the handle.  Be sure to extend the tape from the end of the handle to the middle of the knife when you finish wrapping it up.  And if you’d like an easy release, only use “tape” material with a flat, smooth surface.

There is a proper stance when preparing to throw.  There is a proper arm swing and body movement.  A proper release.  All of these movements combined make your complete throwing form.  While practice will affect your accuracy and success, one thing you must not ignore: how you feel.  That’s right.  Do not throw when you are tired, sleepy or disoriented.  Even a little.  After a bit or practice, your throwing arm, from your chest to the tips of your fingers, will start hurting.  Don’t keep throwing.  Rest up first.  And don’t throw when you’re hungry or mad, sick or recovering from some “small” injury.  Really, don’t.  You are throwing a deadly weapon and you shouldn’t risk hurting anyone—especially yourself! 

How about the target itself?  What makes a good target?  A chunk of durable wood is very good for a target.  Anything metal, concrete or of a material of similar hardness must not be used.  The knife must be able to penetrate and stick to the target.  Otherwise, what’s the use?  It should be in a safe location where bounce-offs can’t injure anyone or damage any thing.  The trajectory path must be clear and free of all traffic.  A good safe distance is one hundred feet clear in all directions.  Your distance from the target is also very important.  It is much better to hit your target five times at ten feet away than it is to hit your target once at twenty feet away.  When you’ve mastered throwing at a short distance, only then should you increase your distance from the target.  Baby steps. 

Let’s add a dash or two of common sense here.  Surely some will think that it’s unnecessary to say this, but there are some for whom you MUST say this:  Do not throw knives in the rain or during a snowfall.  Do not throw knives in inclement weather or during a storm.  Make sure your throwing area is well lit and clear of debris or material that can become airborne.  Buildings and trees should be well out of your safety zone.  And when you throw, don’t take your eyes off of the knife until it comes to rest.

It’s just a bit of knowing what is best to remove all risk of injury.  After all, you are throwing pointed blades at high speed over a distance.  Be the safest knife thrower.  Good luck and Be Careful!

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Len Q. is a master blade sharpener and an adventurer who strives to protect the natural world.  If you would like to learn about

            ▪  Knife Sharpening:  How to Sharpen Knives, Maintain and Store Them

            ▪  Tests for Sharpness, Steeling, Stropping and Much more

            ▪  Sharpening Other Edges (Maintaining and Storing Them)

               (i.e. Chain Saws, Lawn Mower Blades, Gardening Tools, Axes)

Find it here at www.MakeKnivesSharp.com 

Consider the largest items outside.  These are the ones with no cover at all.  Cars , boats, ATVs, lawn and toy furniture—so many things.  Move all vehicles, including all items of similar size, to at least 30 feet from the house.  Put your vehicles in gear and engage the hand break.  Boats should have their biminis or sails taken down and loose items on deck taken below.  ATVs, outside appliances and yard maintenance machines should be tied down.  Uh-huh.  You  heard right.  Find a lot of rope.  This includes lawn furniture and large toy contraptions.  Get a sharp knife to quickly cut the lengths you need.  Tie these things together, when possible, and then tie them to the house.  Sounds freaky.  But you’ve got to if it’s a very strong storm.  Make sure there’s no give on the rope for everything you tie down.  And let me tell you, I didn’t know how to tie strong knots until this.  You’ve gotta learn what you’ve gotta learn.  Make it happen.

Some tips here.  If it’s a very severe storm, leave the littlest crack on one window of each of your vehicles.  Check again and ensure that all motorized vehicles, including ATVs, are left in gear and their breaks engaged.  Plug the drain for your boat and fill it to halfway with water.  Do the same for other large items that are also able to hold water.  This will keep their “feet” on the ground and prevent them from being rolled over.  Tables should be turned upside down and chairs piled on top of them.  What you’re doing is creating bulk and weight wherever you can.  This will help to keep them on the ground.

All things hanging have got to be taken down.  Plants in pots, decorations, art or anything that is not already secured to an immobile structure.  This includes canopies and tarps.  Any and all loose items you may have straggling around.  Smaller toys, all types of gear, tools, especially the sharp ones.  Barbeque grills, whatever.  If you can move it, so can the storm.   Piles of wood left where they are?  Piles of anything that can become airborne need your attention.  You so don’t want flying projectiles.  Secure them all and then, only then can you relax.  But, wait!  The garden! 

Most amateur horticulturalists will surely consider their gardens to be more important than anything else outside the house.  But, honestly, when it comes to danger, a hard “anything” will hurt more than a flying plant (well, probably not a cactus).  If the plant is in a pot that stands higher than two feet, lay it on the ground on its side.  If the plants are on stilts or on pedestals, take them down.  Put all of these close together. 

Drape some sort of netting over them.  Nets allow wind to pass through them but will also hold whatever’s under them fairly in place.  Tuna nets are a personal favorite.  Sections can be cut out of a roll to accommodate every plot of garden that you’ve got.  Try it.  If you don’t secure them, you’ll have to bring them indoors.  Otherwise, they may be gone when it’s all over.  You’ll have to decide what you’re willing to let go.

Keep in mind that the trimming of large trees takes some consideration.  If you’ve got large trees around your home, and you love your trees, you’ve got to trim them down.  At the very least, remove dead and dying branches.  Then immediately get them off the property.  These are large flying projectiles waiting to happen.  Don’t risk it.

In the midst of a strong storm, when it’s bedlam outside, you really don’t want to have to go out there to tie down something you hear being bashed around and breaking into things.  Plan ahead.  Give yourself time to do these things before the storm arrives. 

It’s kind of funny when you think about the whole thing.  In the process of securing outside your home, you’re actually cleaning up all around the house.  Think about it.  You’re removing everything that can fly that isn’t necessary for your livelihood.  Whatever’s been in queue for months will likely get tossed.  All the things lying around will disappear.  It’s nearly immaculate. 

Now you could choose not to remove or secure all of these loose items.  You could.  Just keep in mind that the storm will probably disperse it all for you, whether you like it or not.  Many things that are unsecured you’ll likely never see again.  When you do a good job and secure well, you’ll be secure and without concern the entire time.  That’s the best and safest way to endure a storm.  Worry free

————————————————————————————————

Len Q. is a master blade sharpener and an adventurer who strives to protect the natural world.  If you would like to learn about

            ▪  Knife Sharpening:  How to Sharpen Knives, Maintain and Store Them

            ▪  Sharpening Other Edges (Maintain and Store Them)

               (e.g. Chain Saws, Lawn Mower Blades, Gardening Tools, Axes)

            ▪  The Fastest Way to Sharpen, Tests for Sharpness and Much more

Find it here at www.MakeKnivesSharp.com. 

To protect the tree, you must inspect it before you climb.  Only then can a climber decide that a tree is suitable for a climb and strong enough to support a climber.  There are four zones of tree inspection to satisfy (primarily based on A Climber’s Guide to Tree Inspection of Tree Climbers International).  The first is the Wide Angle View Zone.  You inspect the tree from a distance, maybe 30-70 feet (depending on the size of the tree).  You want to get a picture of it as a unit, in its own space.

Large cracks or splits down the trunk or along a large branch are more readily seen from a distance, as are weakened or fractured branches that appear to need just the slightest nudge before they plummet to the ground.  The lean of a tree is much easier to detect from a distance than if you were standing beneath it—as are power lines.  Do not climb near power lines.  Just don’t do it.  Take your time, moving slowly around the tree.  Don’t rush.  Give each tree the attention it deserves. 

Now you’ll inspect the Ground Zone.  This is the area around the base of the tree, including its exposed root system, as well as a few feet up the tree trunk.  Be mindful of where you place your feet, and don’t take steps unless your eyes are on the ground.  Take care not to damage what may be delicate or rare plants.  Do not disturb nesting sites, actual nests, hives, burrows or the like.  You are just visiting and don’t forget it. 

While inspecting the Ground Zone, there are some tell signs to look for.

◦  If there are dead branches lying on the ground, step away from the tree and look up.  Do a closer inspection of the canopy for other dead branches that haven’t quite found their way down yet. 

◦  Check for a trunk cavity, especially along the base of the tree.  Its presence usually indicates a weakening of the entire tree, especially if there are multiple cavities.  The same is true for splits or cracks in the trunk.  Multiple cracks or splits may mean that the tree is in danger of breaking. 

◦  If you notice cracked or raised soil at the base of a tree, it’s a possible sign of uprooting, especially if it’s opposite the leaning side of a leaning tree.  Be mindful of fungal growth on or around the base of a tree.  It is indicative of trunk rot and root decay, because fungi only grow on dead and decaying matter.  If a tree has lost all its anchoring roots (which hold the tree in place), a soft wind or the weight of rainwater on leaves could actually topple the entire tree. 

Now you’ll inspect the Trunk Zone.  There are several warning signs of tree weakness to look for.  As previously mentioned, a tree with an extreme trunk lean requires ground inspection for signs of being uprooted.  Insect infestation can be detected without special training.  Signs to look for:

◦ Completely dead isolated branches in the canopy

◦  A dead top, which is a completely dead canopy

◦  Sawdust type patches on the trunk

◦  Pitch tubes on the trunk, which are light colored sap clusters

◦  Unusual color patches

◦  Mottled leaves or a uniform degradation of the structure of the leaves

Other important signs to look for:  The absence of bark on a trunk could mean fungal growth or a dead section.  Lightning strikes are often indicated by a long bare strip.  Trees with multiple trunks show weakness if the trunks form a nearly closed “V”.  If you see a ridge of wood growing downwards on both sides of the connected trunks, it could mean that the tree is strengthening a weak area or that there’s a fracture under the surface.

Abnormalities in the Crown Zone (canopy) usually involve dead wood.  Large trees will naturally have dead branches but it is the location of these branches that you need to pay close attention to.  Unhealthy trees often have branches dying only at their tips.  If a large number of these dead branches are high in the canopy, it means that the tree is in the process of dying.  Individual dead branches will have brown leaves or no leaves at all.  Loss of bark or fungal growth is symptomatic of a dying or dead branch. 

Point of interest.  Life-threatening branches that are already broken but are still lodged in a tree are called widow-makers.  They need to be avoided at all costs.  When you can do it safely, remove dead, decaying or infected branches.  If safety isn’t secured, avoid these branches from a safe distance.  Be very careful not to trim green wood or living branches.  If you can help it at all, just leave it be. 

In the end, when the climbing is done and you’re standing on the ground, the greatest kind of tree climber leaves with not the littlest indication that he or she was there.  This climber is only a visitor.  Remember:  We climb to enjoy.  Not to control.  Be safe up there!

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Len Q. is a master blade sharpener and an adventurer who strives to protect the natural world.  If you would like to learn about

            ▪  Knife Sharpening:  How to Sharpen Knives, Maintain and Store Them

            ▪  Sharpening Other Edges (Maintain and Store Them)

               (e.g. Chain Saws, Lawn Mower Blades, Gardening Tools, Axes)

            ▪  The Fastest Way to Sharpen, Tests for Sharpness and more

Find it here at www.MakeKnivesSharp.com. 

There are such extreme dangers in mountain climbing.  The top three are things falling on you, yourself falling and bad weather.  Things that may fall on you include rocks, ice and snow (avalanches). 

◦  Rocks could come loose on mountains at any moment.  Furrows on the slopes and conspicuous collections of rock and debris in patches are good signs to look for. 

◦  Areas prone to falling ice are overhanging cornices (molding below a ceiling) that you find on the peaks of narrow ridges. 

◦  Broken sections of glaciers, called seracs, are potentially dangerous.  Ice sections could fall during, and after, the hottest part of the day. 

◦  Hanging glaciers on steep slopes will periodically drop ice.  Ice piles in patches are excellent indicators. 

◦  Be weary of large icicles that form on steep rock faces.  They could break loose at any moment, especially after inclement weather. 

◦  Before all of that, however, you are advised to remember that a falling climber is a very real danger.  Even just his gear coming your way could knock you loose. 

Either way, stay sharp at all times.  It may not be the mountain that takes you down.  

Tons and tons of snow, ice and debris streaking down a mountainside as an avalanche is most terrifying.  If you find yourself caught in one, survival is slim, at best.  Hundreds of people die every year in avalanches.  Many of them were athletically skilled individuals, even skilled climbers.  Many of them were caught out in the open snow. 

It isn’t very easy to turn back from a snow crossing once you’ve begun.  So much time will be lost.  When in doubt, don’t do it and save your life.  A large percentage of avalanche fatalities were expert skiers with avalanche training.  Think on that for a bit.  Sometimes knowing is not enough to save you.  Oftentimes, it is the knowing that makes a person unnecessarily reckless. 

Alpine (high mountain) climbers are advised to always carry an avalanche beacon, a probe and a shovel to help in your own rescue should you, or your party, become trapped in an avalanche.

Just as there are many ways that an object may fall on you while climbing, there are so many ways for you, yourself, to fall. 

◦  As a climber, you could loose your hold and drop into the air.  It could be the last sensation you know. 

◦  You may go careening down a mountainside.  If you survive the brutal fall, hopefully you won’t land in a deep hole or a crevasse.  (Good grief!) 

◦  Be extremely cautious on slick ice slopes.  Crampons, an ice axe and ice screws (pickets) become necessary here.  One slip could mean no return for you. 

There are snow slopes for which a potential avalanche must always be considered.  At the base of these snow slopes lies the danger of a hidden crevasse.  Meticulous use of a snow bridge often becomes necessary.  You’ll want to have an experienced climber with you for those instances when advancing over snow, especially snow on ice, is a difficult decision.  If you must go, a straight ascent is preferred over a horizontal one.  Less can be done to encourage snow movement (avalanche) this way.

Crevasses are deep chasms found in glaciers.  They may be easily seen or they may be hidden from sight.  It takes experience and caution to detect them.  Your best protection is to rope your climbing party together.  Don’t ever cross a crevasse without being tied to at least one person.

Weather is an awesome force high in the mountains.  You can never escape it so don’t think that you can ignore it.  You may experience a whiteout where you’d be lucky to see a few feet in front of you.  In the summer, you may experience thunderstorms or lightning, even lightning all by itself.  All climbers are advised to have an alpine start, that is, a climb that starts before or at first light.  It gives you the chance to return to base during daylight should the weather become threatening.

High in the mountains there is less oxygen to breathe.  The body needs to acclimatize, to become accustomed to the thin air.  If you don’t give yourself enough time, you’ll probably develop altitude sickness.  If you do not descend immediately when this happens, your condition could progress to one of two forms of edema.  Both conditions could be fatal within 24 hours.  I repeat, fatal within a day.  If this happens, get yourself off that mountain right now!

Mountain climbing is absurdly dangerous.  You really will risk your life, over and over.  But, oh, to stand on the summit.  To be so high, to see for many miles, possibly over many miles of mountains, to know that you stand where few have gone before.  What a feeling!  Very few things come close.  Be careful up there! 

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Len Q. is a master blade sharpener and an adventurer who strives to protect the natural world.  If you would like to learn about

             ▪  Knife Sharpening:  How to Sharpen Knives, Maintain and Store Them

            ▪  Sharpening Other Edges (Maintain and Store Them)

               (e.g. Chain Saws, Lawn Mower Blades, Gardening Tools, Axes)

            ▪  The Fastest Way to Sharpen, Tests for Sharpness and more

Find it here at www.MakeKnivesSharp.com. 

Choosing a knife.  The type of knife you choose will have an incredible impact on how much you’re able to enjoy knife throwing.  Keep in mind that quality throwing knives do not have a handle.  The blade is the throwing knife. 

▪ Size:  Knives that are between 12”-16” are a good size.  They aren’t too big and

not so small that you’d have to throw harder and strain to watch them in flight. 

▪ Weight:  Knives of the above size will fly fairly undisturbed from wind and

won’t drift so much.  They make a very satisfying sound when they find

their target.  Wait for it.

▪ Balance:  One of the most important fundamentals of throwing a knife is

controlling its spin.  A good spin on the knife is accomplished by throwing the heaviest

part first.  An unbalanced knife would be your surest bet.  But if you’d like to be able to

throw your knife by either the blade or the handle, choose a balanced knife.

▪ Edge:  For beginners, as you are, blunt-edged blades are best.  Moreover, sharp edged knives aren’t allowed in competitions or at social establishments, if that’s where you’re headed.  If you really want sharp edges, switch only after you’ve acquired some skill throwing blunt-edged blades.

The grip.  The easiest and most reliable grip is the hammer grip.  As you are a beginner, this grip is recommended until you’ve mastered it.  Hold the knife firmly around the handle as you would hold a hammer.  Lift your thumb off of your fisted grip and place it alongside the blade—this would be the blunt-edged spine.  You are now using a modified hammer grip.  Remember, blunt edges for beginners, please.  Safety first.  You really don’t want to risk slicing up your hands.

Throwing the knife.  The majority of knife throwers are right-handed.  The throw, therefore, will be considered for a right-handed thrower.

▪ Stance.  Your left foot is about 2 feet in front of your right foot with your weight resting on the balls of your right foot.  Both heels are on imaginary parallel lines.  Both feet are about 45 degrees apart, with your left pointing towards the target.  Knees are slightly bent.  Arms extending in a straight line at chest level, pointing towards the target.

▪ Throw.  Remember not to move your shoulders during this motion.  The right arm, knife held in a firm grip, makes a fluid arc swing to the sky and onward to the back until the knife is beside your head.  Now swing your right arm forward towards the target, shifting your weight from the back right foot to the front left foot. 

▪ The chop.  Imagine a large branch between you and the target.  Bring your right arm down as though it were chopping this branch.  Be sure to reach as you chop.  When the knife is pointing directly at the target, release the knife as you snap your fingers back.                   

▪ Follow through.  Although you’ll be tempted to, do not stop the swing of your right arm.  Follow through until it drops down.  This is very important in your form and, consequently, in the success of your throw.

Alright then.  There you go!  Beginners, have at it!  Practice, practice and practice.  Good luck to you and be so careful!

———————————————————————————————–

Len Q. is a master blade sharpener and an adventurer who strives to protect the natural world.  If you would like to learn about

            ▪  Knife Sharpening:  How to Sharpen Knives, Maintain and Store Them

            ▪  Tests for Sharpness, Steeling, Stropping and Much more

            ▪  Sharpening Other Edges (Maintaining and Storing Them)

               (i.e. Chain Saws, Lawn Mower Blades, Gardening Tools, Axes)

Find it here at www.MakeKnivesSharp.com   

Most sharpeners are designed with speed and ease in mind.  Most things are.  A basic sharpening stone is not.  Using a sharpening stone isn’t fast.  But it isn’t very slow, either.  Would you believe that it could be the fastest, the cheapest and the most dependable way to sharpen a knife’s edge? 

So what are the “many” advantages of using sharpening stones over everything else?  Let us count the ways:

▪  It could be the fastest way to sharpen because you’ll do it right there where you are.  You needn’t go anywhere or wait to have it done for you.

▪  It could be the cheapest because you won’t have to pay for services rendered.  No gas money spent dropping it off or picking it up.

▪  They’re more reliable than electric sharpeners.  It’s pretty easy to overheat an edge on an electric sharpener.  In a few seconds, the blade edge could be ruined.  No kidding.  The abrasives move fast enough that you’ve got to pay close, constant attention. 

▪  Sharpening stones are more dependable than  automatic sharpeners.  You’ll be one skilled individual if you’re able to maintain the same sharpening angle for both sides of the edge each time you swipe the knife.  Maintaining the right position from tip to heel isn’t so easy.  If you haven’t mastered it, the edge may seem sharp initially, but you’ll need to swipe it again before you know it.

Special note:  There are high priced electric knife sharpeners out there that claim “never” to detemper you knife edges.  I can’t speak on the reliability of such claims.  Just be very cautious if you decide to use one.      

▪  Many sharpening stones come in compact sizes.  They could fit right in your hand.  An axe stone, for example, looks like a really fat cookie.  A very safe cookie.  Some rectangular stones are like a little thin bar of chocolate that comes in a box (anybody hungry?).  And most of us have seen tiny sharpening stones in a special pocket on a knife belt holster.  Don’t forget the ones on a key chain.  Talk about handy.  Sure isn’t so easy with most other types of knife sharpeners.

▪  And best of all, you can take sharpening stones practically anywhere you need to go, except maybe underwater or flying through the air.  Really almost anywhere.  (Outer space isn’t recommended.) 

If you do decide to pick up a sharpening stone, you’ll have some choices.  There are water stones, oil stones and diamond stones (don’t get any ideas).  Each kind having its own varieties available and each with its own set of advantages.  Whichever type you choose, sharpening stones usually come in two halves.  One half has a coarse grade that’ll get your blade’s edge good and sharp.  The other half has a much finer grade for refining that edge to razor-sharpness.  This is real good for kitchen knives.  Just one stone can easily take care of many, if not most, of your every day sharpening needs.  

The most recent addition to sharpening stones is the ceramic sharpening stone.  Many people aren’t even aware that they’re out there.  They are only meant to sharpen steel knives.  They are not meant to sharpen ceramic knives.  Because they are much harder than steel, be sure to sharpen your steel knives carefully.  Metal comes off the edge much faster than all other sharpening stones and so sharpening happens much faster.

Using a sharpening stone to sharpen a knife is still the most dependable and reliable way to sharpen your blade edge.  It’s very simple.  Very effective.  It could be the fastest, the most inexpensive way to sharpen knives.  When you know what you’re doing, you’ll save your knives, too.  Be very careful.

———————————————————————————————

Len Q. is a master blade sharpener and an adventurer who strives to protect the natural world.  If you would like to learn more about

            ▪  Knife Sharpening:  How to Sharpen Knives, Maintain and Store Them

            ▪  How to Use Sharpening Stones, Including Sharpening 

                Angles, Lubrication and Coarseness

            ▪  Tests for Sharpness, Steeling, Stropping and more

            ▪  Sharpening Other Edges

               (i.e. Chain Saws, Lawn Mower Blades, Gardening Tools, Axes)

Find it here at www.MakeKnivesSharp.com 

Before I knew it, I was going three times a week for over a month.  Making it a strong swim with no resting.  And I could see, truly see new lines, new shadows on this body that I hadn’t seen in so long.  Then I decided.  This was going to be my new way to work out.  Two to three times a week, I’d swim for 20-30 minutes (of course, I timed it).  And we’ll see.

Soon after the first month, I watched Jaws on television one night.  And then, right after in the same night, I watched “Shark Attack” on Animal Planet.  Oh, baby.  That was it.  Scared me crazy all over again.  But I’ve got to make my swim.  I can’t stop now.  So what do I do?  Uh-huh.  Take out my very sharp dive knife and strap it to my right calf.

Now I’m standing on the shore once more, warming up for the swim.  My dive knife is on my leg and I really don’t feel much better.  Come on.  I know that I stand little chance against a shark.  Shoot.  The barest chance is more like it.  Man, am I scared.  I’m swimming for over 10 minutes straight out to the ocean and then again coming back.  Just me.  But I’ve got to do it.  I can’t just stop.  Fear, well, in this case, just pisses me off!  So I tie my hair back, take a few steps into the ocean and dive under.  There’s sweat to be had here in this blue water. 

This beautiful U-shaped bay in the smallest southern village of a very small tropical island just on top of the equator—whew!—well, it’s my very large swimming pool.  On this rare occasion, the water is clear and blue.  Visibility is about 30 feet.  A very clear day today.  Hasn’t rained at all.  Much drier days, these days (global warming anyone?).  No recent influx of sedimentation and all kinds of muck and debris brought down from the scorched mountains and deposited into the ocean.  The reefs and coastal marine life enjoy a few days of “clean air”.  It’s painful to know that all it takes is one good rain to make this vibrant blue water dull and dirty looking again.  And as much as I don’t want that, the land needs more rain.

I’m just about to the halfway mark.  Keeping the pace steady.  Flip underwater and kick the wall that is the ocean and head back towards the shore.  Make sure to keep a little push in my stride.  I’m thinking, if a shark actually attacks me, I don’t want to just go down.  Oh, no.  I’m not gonna let a shark take me away from my life, from my family.  If I’m going down, baby, you’re coming with me.  And that’s why I have my very sharp dive knife.  I stop swimming for a moment, fake an attack on me, hammering it into my head that I’ve got to remember to grab that knife no matter what.  Shoot.  Pound his snout.  Head butt if I have to.  Jam my fingers in both his eyes.  Shove my hand through his gills.  Oh, yeah.  It won’t be easy.  Sharky boy, you’ve got to earn it! 

Now I’m halfway home from halfway.  The last few minutes of the home stretch.  Made it again.  I’ll tell you, I’ve jumped off a boat into the clearest blue water way, way, way out in the ocean.  Hundreds of feet deep on a bright sunny day with not a thing in sight, above or below the water.  There’s nothing like it and few things come close.  And no matter how scared I get—and I get scared quite often—fear doesn’t stand a chance.  I won’t allow it.  There’s just too much beauty in the natural world.  Too much to experience for that.  Truly, truly wondrous and amazing.  I am so thankful that I know it. 

 ————–————————————————————————-

Len Q. is a master blade sharpener and an adventurer who strives to protect the natural world.  If you would like to learn about

            ▪  Knife Sharpening:  How to Sharpen Knives, Maintain and Store Them

            ▪  The Fastest Way to Sharpen, Tests for Sharpness and Much more

            ▪  Sharpening Other Edges

               (e.g. Chain Saws, Lawn Mower Blades, Gardening Tools, Axes)

Find it here at www.MakeKnivesSharp.com. 

What this means is that you’ve got to make some time to prepare your yard for the coming storm in order to prevent possible damage.  Hopefully, you won’t need more than 2 hours.  You’ve just got to ensure that you don’t have to worry should things get bad.  And be sure to do this only after you’ve properly and completely secured in and around your home, after you’ve stocked up on the supplies you’ll need.  It’s only after all that that your attention should be given over to securing for your yard.

Alright.  You’re securing your landscape for a storm with sustained winds of at least 40 miles an hour.  Over a short time, really terrible damage could be done to your trees.  The nature of a storm with an eye is for the target to endure a pummeling by winds from one direction for the first half, as the storm approaches to meet you.  Now, as you’re enduring the second half when the storm is moving away, the winds have shifted 180 degrees so that they are now coming from the opposite direction.  That’s a lot of stress on trees and their root systems.  First this way, then that way—for many hours, if not days.  I’ve seen 10 foot trees, and taller, snap back and forth to the ground, back and forth without stopping.  Very freaky and more than a little scary.

Trees at highest risk of damage by winds this strong usually have a large spreading crown that is at least 15 feet off the ground.  A tree, or a branch, could be leaning just a bit too much one way and sure poses a hazard of becoming snapped or broken loose.  A tree could have injured or damaged branches or trunks, a weakened structure somewhere that just needs a little push to finally fall to the ground.  Profuse growth of mushrooms or other fungi at the base of trees or in the ground around them are specific indicators of vegetative decomposition.  Keep a sharp eye.  Could be that the root system is failing.  This could mean that the entire tree could easily topple. 

You’ll need to make a judgment whether each tree is strong enough to take it, or if it’s likely unable to make it.  Decide if you’re willing to risk it coming loose and becoming a flying projectile.  And flying projectiles you must avoid.  You’ve got to take down any branch, or tree, that you know is weak enough, or may be weak enough, to break off, be ripped or torn off, or even uprooted entirely.         

Take a measure of every tree in your yard to within 200 feet from the house.  Medium to large trees with a full spreading crown need to be thinned down.  This means that you lesson the amount of vegetation up there.  Remove all the branches that make up the perimeter of the crown, along with shorter, heavy ones that you think may break or become airborne.  You could even reduce the crown from the top by a few feet.  If the crown is really thick and full of leaves, you’ll want to trim off branches everywhere.  If you’re really worried, remove a good 50% of all foliage.  I like to reduce it to only 30% of the whole.  This would depend upon each tree and how healthy and strong it is. 

Really large diameter trunks or branches can be taken down with a chain saw or an axe.  And I really, really wish that you know exactly what you’re doing and that you’re doing it safely.  If you’ve got to climb, you’d better know how to climb.  Otherwise, honestly, don’t do it.  A ladder is highly, highly recommended.  Smaller trees, even large hedges, can also be trimmed, if you feel it necessary.  Other tools that you can readily use are hedge shears or pole saws.  Now don’t get sidetracked and start pruning just to make your place look good.  A storm is coming!  Focus!

You’ve got to consider power lines now.  Look at the location of any power lines that pass over or beside your property.  Are their branches or trunks that, if they snap and fall, are able to touch or even brush against any power lines?  Never forget that a snapped power line or a downed power pole could result in a loss of power, electricity.  This will then result in loss of power to water wells and water pump stations.  And now you have no water.  Believe me, you don’t want to go there.  Trim it down. 

You should also consider branches or trunks near the house, near other buildings in your yard, near cars, boats or other large contraptions.  If the storm is strong enough, don’t take chances.  They’ll grow back with time.  You know it. 

What you don’t want is to be sorry that you couldn’t just cut that branch.  You wouldn’t just trim that tree.  If you had, your car wouldn’t need a new windshield.  Your bedroom wouldn’t have that large branch in it.  Really give each tree the consideration your home deserves.  Don’t take chances.  Be safe.

 ————————————————————–

Len Q. is a master blade sharpener and an adventurer who strives to protect the natural world.  If you would like to learn about

            ▪  Knife Sharpening:  How to Sharpen Knives, Maintain and Store Them

            ▪  Sharpening Other Edges (Maintain and Store Them)

               (e.g. Chain Saws, Lawn Mower Blades, Gardening Tools, Axes)

            ▪  The Fastest Way to Sharpen, Tests for Sharpness and Much more

Find it here at www.MakeKnivesSharp.com.