Tree Climbing: The Greatest Kind Of Tree Climber

The greatest kind of tree climber is the one who climbs with the barest disturbance to living trees and their inhabitants.  This climber knows how important trees are to the environment everywhere and to all air-breathing creatures on this earth.  The greatest kind of tree climber is all too aware that he is the visitor, only a visitor, and not the keeper of what he surveys.

 

To protect the tree, you must inspect it before you climb.  Only then can a climber decide that a tree is suitable for a climb and strong enough to support a climber.  There are four zones of tree inspection to satisfy (primarily based on A Climber’s Guide to Tree Inspection of Tree Climbers International).  The first is the Wide Angle View Zone.  You inspect the tree from a distance, maybe 30-70 feet (depending on the size of the tree).  You want to get a picture of it as a unit, in its own space.

 

Large cracks or splits down the trunk or along a large branch are more readily seen from a distance, as are weakened or fractured branches that appear to need just the slightest nudge before they plummet to the ground.  The lean of a tree is much easier to detect from a distance than if you were standing beneath it—as are power lines.  Do not climb near power lines.  Just don’t do it.  Take your time, moving slowly around the tree.  Don’t rush.  Give each tree the attention it deserves. 

 

Now you’ll inspect the Ground Zone.  This is the area around the base of the tree, including its exposed root system, as well as a few feet up the tree trunk.  Be mindful of where you place your feet, and don’t take steps unless your eyes are on the ground.  Take care not to damage what may be delicate or rare plants.  Do not disturb nesting sites, actual nests, hives, burrows or the like.  You are just visiting and don’t forget it. 

 

While inspecting the Ground Zone, there are some tell signs to look for.

 

◦  If there are dead branches lying on the ground, step away from the tree and look up.  Do a closer inspection of the canopy for other dead branches that haven’t quite found their way down yet. 

 

◦  Check for a trunk cavity, especially along the base of the tree.  Its presence usually indicates a weakening of the entire tree, especially if there are multiple cavities.  The same is true for splits or cracks in the trunk.  Multiple cracks or splits may mean that the tree is in danger of breaking. 

 

◦  If you notice cracked or raised soil at the base of a tree, it’s a possible sign of uprooting, especially if it’s opposite the leaning side of a leaning tree.  Be mindful of fungal growth on or around the base of a tree.  It is indicative of trunk rot and root decay, because fungi only grow on dead and decaying matter.  If a tree has lost all its anchoring roots (which hold the tree in place), a soft wind or the weight of rainwater on leaves could actually topple the entire tree. 

 

Now you’ll inspect the Trunk Zone.  There are several warning signs of tree weakness to look for.  As previously mentioned, a tree with an extreme trunk lean requires ground inspection for signs of being uprooted.  Insect infestation can be detected without special training.  Signs to look for:

 

◦ Completely dead isolated branches in the canopy

 

◦  A dead top, which is a completely dead canopy

 

◦  Sawdust type patches on the trunk

 

◦  Pitch tubes on the trunk, which are light colored sap clusters

 

◦  Unusual color patches

 

◦  Mottled leaves or a uniform degradation of the structure of the leaves

 

Other important signs to look for:  The absence of bark on a trunk could mean fungal growth or a dead section.  Lightning strikes are often indicated by a long bare strip.  Trees with multiple trunks show weakness if the trunks form a nearly closed “V”.  If you see a ridge of wood growing downwards on both sides of the connected trunks, it could mean that the tree is strengthening a weak area or that there’s a fracture under the surface.

 

Abnormalities in the Crown Zone (canopy) usually involve dead wood.  Large trees will naturally have dead branches but it is the location of these branches that you need to pay close attention to.  Unhealthy trees often have branches dying only at their tips.  If a large number of these dead branches are high in the canopy, it means that the tree is in the process of dying.  Individual dead branches will have brown leaves or no leaves at all.  Loss of bark or fungal growth is symptomatic of a dying or dead branch. 

 

Point of interest.  Life-threatening branches that are already broken but are still lodged in a tree are called widow-makers.  They need to be avoided at all costs.  When you can do it safely, remove dead, decaying or infected branches.  If safety isn’t secured, avoid these branches from a safe distance.  Be very careful not to trim green wood or living branches.  If you can help it at all, just leave it be. 

 

In the end, when the climbing is done and you’re standing on the ground, the greatest kind of tree climber leaves with not the littlest indication that he or she was there.  This climber is only a visitor.  Remember:  We climb to enjoy.  Not to control.  Be safe up there!

 

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Len Q. is a master blade sharpener and an adventurer who strives to protect the natural world.  If you would like to learn about

 

            ▪  Knife Sharpening:  How to Sharpen Knives, Maintain and Store Them

            ▪  Sharpening Other Edges (Maintain and Store Them)

               (e.g. Chain Saws, Lawn Mower Blades, Gardening Tools, Axes)

            ▪  The Fastest Way to Sharpen, Tests for Sharpness and more

 

Find it here at www.MakeKnivesSharp.com. 

Tree Climbing: So You Want To Be A Tree Climber

When I was really young, climbing trees was like eating candy for me.  If it had branches, I had to climb it.  The steep hill behind grandma’s house was covered with towering mango trees.  I’d spend hours there climbing from branch to branch high in the canopies, even tree to tree without touching the ground.  As an adult, it’s fantastic to know that climbing trees doesn’t necessarily have to be life or limb, literally.  It’s wonderful to be able to use ropes now.  Wherever I go, all I’m looking for is the next tree to climb. 

 

Tree climbing means ascending a tree and moving around up in the canopy.  Many people aren’t even aware that it’s an actual sport.  But then, it’s only been recognized as one in the last 20 years.  Your bare requirements are a rope, a harness and a helmet.  That’s it.  And you don’t have to worry if you aren’t athletically fit.  If you can walk a mile, you can tree climb.  Even a minimally fit person can do it.  And it’s such fun! 

 

There are some really good advantages to tree climbing.  It’s a great way to exercise.  You’ll probably discover muscle groups you’ve never noticed before.  If you’ve got nice trees in your area and a good number of them, your scenery will keep changing.  That’ll add some excitement to the workout.  No boredom there.  High above the ground, maybe in mid-air, your whole perspective changes.  Surely, at birds-eye view, the world is a different place.  Who knows what you may realize about your life just by climbing a tree.  And except for your initial investment in gear, there really isn’t much else to spend your money on.  Paying to use a climbing structure, or to build one, surely isn’t necessary.  Trees are all around us, almost anywhere, at any time of the year. 

 

Because you’ll be directly working with a large living thing, certain rules, or safety measures, must be followed to respect that life, and to honor the sport.  The most important rules involve yourself.  Stay “on rope” at all times by staying connected to your rope.  Never forget the fall.  And don’t just rely on yourself to learn how to do it.  Get training from a qualified instructor.  Wear the right gear and have the right equipment—however basic it may be.  Don’t climb trees with branches near power lines.  Just don’t risk it.  Electrocution is a tragic sign of complete disregard for one’s safety.  It is entirely avoidable.

 

Protecting the tree and its natural surroundings require their own safety measures.  When you decide to climb a tree, you must inspect it thoroughly for any signs of danger or weakness before you climb.  If you notice that something seems wrong, move on.  If it’s a go, on the other hand, you may want to use cambium savers.  They protect trees with thin bark from rope friction.  This will depend upon the tree you choose.  And, please, don’t willingly injure a tree, especially by using leg spikes or any other implement that you know must damage the tree in order to be used (such as a gaff).  You don’t want to go around leaving injured trees in your wake.  Honor the sport, respect the tree. 

 

Sometimes it becomes necessary to do a little branch trimming.  Use caution, especially with dead branches.  Make sure that all climbers are standing clear.  Falling branches should drop unhindered all the way to the ground.  Maybe you could use those trimmed branches as a landfill in adjacent areas. 

 

Be watchful of living things in old growth trees.  Special plant communities may be found anywhere on or near the tree.  Do not disturb them.  Nesting animals and their actual nests must be left alone.  Be attentive of ground cover beneath and around trees.  Take care not to damage what may be delicate or rare plants. 

 

When it’s time to ascend, you’ll have some choices.  If you want to be a free climber and not just a tree climber (ha!), the rope will be attached to you but only as a safety measure in case you fall.  It will not assist in climbing whatever.  As a free solo climber, ropes are used not at all.  I repeat:  Not at all.  Your life is literally in your own hands.  But you’ve only just decided to become a tree climber so you won’t go there.  Your focus is on tree climbing with ropes.      

 

There are three basic techniques for tree climbing with ropes.  There is the single rope technique (SRT), the double rope technique (DRT) and the lead climbing technique.  In SRT, a throw line is used to reach a high branch.  The climbing rope is then hauled over that branch and secured in place.  You then ascend the climbing rope.  With DRT, a high branch is attained using SRT.  Then both ends of the climbing rope are attached to the climber with a sequence of climbing knots throughout (makes climbing much easier).  A tug in either direction will move the climber.  Using a modified Blake’s hitch for the main knot, the climber only has to let go of the rope to stop in place.  Very cool.  The lead climbing technique involves a lead climber who ascends the tree as a free climber.  Along the way, protection points are set up as slings banded around the tree’s limbs.  At the top, the lead climber can set up a belay (top rope) for other climbers to ascend.  If not, the lead climber simply rappels down.

 

Tree climbing is an exciting way to stay fit and active.  It’s also quite peaceful and, somehow, rejuvenating once you’re up in the canopy.   If you know what gear you need, how to protect and not damage trees, if you know how to climb them safely, imagine the heights you could reach.  The peace you may find.  Trees are wondrous and life-giving.  Enjoy them and be careful up there!     

 

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Len Q. is a master blade sharpener and an adventurer who strives to protect the natural world.  If you would like to learn about

 

            ▪  Knife Sharpening:  How to Sharpen Knives, Maintain and Store Them

            ▪  Sharpening Other Edges 

               (i.e. Chain Saws, Lawn Mower Blades, Gardening Tools, Axes)

            ▪  Or Maybe You Could Use a Free Sharpening Guide

 

Find it here at www.MakeKnivesSharp.com.